I first dived the Red Sea from Hurghada in 1983. Back then, there was just one hotel, the Sheraton, which was extremely expensive and catered for expatriate oil engineers - we rented a local house and endured a nine-hour car journey from Cairo. Our driver was armed with 400 cigarettes to ease our passage past the countless checkpoints, official and unofficial. He also carried a revolver, presumably in case we came up against anyone who didn't smoke!

When we arrived, the reefs were pristine. Carless Reef was then the perfect Red Sea dive - you can get a taste of what it was like by diving the Brothers Islands today. So much for history. As we all know, divers pioneered tourism in Hurghada and Sharm El Sheikh. New airports were built, hotels sprang up, diving became the world's sexiest sport and both areas underwent rapid development.

In Hurghada, something went wrong. Boats moored over coral, divers ignored the benefits of buoyancy control and many reefs were trashed. Environmentalists stepped in, introducing permanent moorings and a code of conduct which encouraged divers to stop treating coral gardens like a roller-disco. Many felt it was too late - in the eyes of serious divers, Hurghada became a second-rate destination.

But is this a fair and accurate viewpoint? Sharm El Sheikh, too, has its detractors: overcrowding is unquestionably a problem at the best sites and some of the reefs have inevitably suffered over the years. Still - and let's get this in perspective - these remain two of the best places to dive in the world. I went on back-to-back trips to Sharm (on DIVE's annual staff trip) and Hurghada (as a guest of Regal Dive) to assess the resorts' strong and weak points. So, which one comes out on top?

THE DIVING
Sharm has relatively easy access to the Strait of Tiran, where you enjoy picturesque dives on Gordon, Jackson, Thomas and Woodhouse reefs. The only problem is the prevailing wind from the north, which often prevents you diving on the best side of the reefs - boats moor up on the leeward side and it gets crowded in autumn, the most popular time for visiting divers.

There are plenty of novice sites, such as Near Garden, Temple and Ras Ghozlani, which also provide excellent opportunities for underwater photography. The jewel in the crown, however, is still Ras Mohammad - the most southern part of the Sinai Peninsula. Here, three dives - Anemone City, Shark Reef and Yolanda Reef merge into one. Quite simply, it beats anything that Hurghada has to offer. For wreck fanatics, both the Dunraven and Thistlegorm are within range for Sharm's dayboats - as long as you are prepared for a very early start

On the other hand, the average Hurghada reef is more impressive than those at Sharm. The soft corals are more vibrant and the anthias (the tiny orange fish which for many are the symbol of Red Sea diving) more numerous. Yes, Carless Reef has been all but destroyed. But Small Giftun, with its huge gorgonian sea fans, and Erg Abu Ramada, with its kaleidoscopic soft corals, are more impressive than Sharm's local reefs.

On my recent trip to Hurghada, the profusion of fish life at Gota abu Ramada East was astonishing - a gift for any cameraman. Beginners' sites such as Halg Disha and Ras Disha had good coral growth and friendly bannerfish that made Sharm's learner sites look dull by comparison.

Although there are wrecks, there are none close to Hurghada that can rival the Thistlegorm, but then according to DIVE's reader survey of world dive sites (see DIVE February 2005), it is the best dive site on the planet. You can dive the Salem Express from Hurghada if you don't mind an early start, but this isn't a wreck for everyone. It is, after all, the scene of a tragedy that took place relatively recently (in 1991) and the wreck is a grave of pilgrims.

As far as sharks are concerned, it seems to me that northern Egyptian resorts should adopt 'you should have been here last week' as a regional motto! Despite my own bad luck with big animal encounters, they are found here - though southern Egypt may be more fertile ground if this is your main motivation for going on holiday.

Both Sharm and Hurghada are right on the logistical limits for day trips to Abu Nuhas, where you will find the wrecks of the Giannis D, Carnatic and Chrisoula K. I believe Hurghada is a better base for reaching the wrecks than Sharm: prevailing northerly winds make it easier for day boats to turn back if sea conditions get too rough.

REEFS
Ras Mohammed is a spectacular drop-off with excellent variety of corals and shoaling fish, the ultimate adrenalin rush.Small Giftun is a steep wall covered with gigantic gorgonian sea fans in excellent condition, a very atmospheric dive.

DAYBOAT QUALITY
There is little to distinguish between the type and condition of the dayboats operating out of either resort. And the service you get on either is the same. If I had to choose between them, I would say that the boats at Sharm which are generally newer, just have the edge.

ACCOMMODATION
Hotels have come a long way since the early Eighties, and the general standard is high, with plenty of choice across a range of prices. If anything, hotels in Hurghada tend to offer slightly better value for money, especially when it comes to in-house food and drink.

NIGHTLIFE/DINING
As Sharm is more self-contained there seems to be a lot more going on in the evening. Na'ama Bay offers a clash of European and pseudo-Arabic nightlife. Hurghada, meanwhile, is spread out over miles of coastline and has a more authentic flavour to it, particularly in the old town.

TOPSIDE ATTRACTIONS
Both destinations have a variety of activities for non-divers or for the last day before flying. Quad bikes, camel rides and desert trips and are all on offer depending upon the time of year. In terms of day trips, Sharm has St Catherine's Monastery, but Hurghada has the Valley of the Kings, so wins this section.

WRECK DIVES
Rated by many as one of the world's best dives, the SS Thistlegorm is a must for every experienced diver who visits Sharm - only let down by a very early start and overcrowding at the site.

The Salem Express is unquestionably a solemn dive, but nevertheless an emotional experience for wreck divers who know how to show respect.

DRIFT DIVES
Woodhouse Reef is one of the best drift dives accessible from Sharm. It is generally dived on the eastern side, though it is much better dive on the western side if conditions - and skippers - permit. This, if anywhere, is where you will find pelagic fish.

The drift dive at Abu Ramada North starts with what the locals call the chimney - a tight swim-through at about 25m. The current then picks up and the rest of the dive is against a beautiful wall coated with soft corals.

PHOTOGRAPHY
The sheer wall at Ras Ghozlani follows the coastline and gives way to a sandy bottom at around 15m. Virtually every species of Red Sea reef fish can be found here.

Torfa Ben El Gebel comprises a series of pinnacles with a high concentration of marine life and some photogenic overhangs.

SO WHO WINS THIS
As I suspected, it's a close call. Both destinations offer spectacular diving at a reasonable price. Sharm has Ras Mohammed and the Thistlegorm, but suffers from high-season crowding. Hurghada, on the other hand, has more medium to high-quality reefs and less crowding, but no sites that can quite match Ras Mohammed. It's personal taste, but for me the wrecks of Abu Nuhas are more interesting than the Thistlegorm and the Dunraven. Finally, I think I prefer eating out in Hurghada, and particularly mooching around the old town. It's close - and I can't quite believe I'm saying this - but as things stand I prefer Hurghada.

So the Clear winner is HURGHADA

Now come and DIVE the DREAM in Hurghada